Our applicators pay special attention to the edges of curbs, driveways, and sidewalks. Weeds typically out-perform your cool season grass in these areas where they are exposed to extreme heat of the pavement and where there is usually poor soil. Many times, when your driveway, sidewalk, patio, curb is installed, there is left-over gravel, rock, and concrete that is not properly replaced with good soil which creates poor growing conditions. These areas can also accumulate sand, salt, and rocks from the pavement. Weed seeds easily collect on the edges and due to a lack of competition and warm soil, they can grow abundantly.
Are you sure it’s crabgrass? There are many annual and perennial grassy weeds that invade our local lawns. If it grows taller than your regular grass it may be Fox Tail, Yellow Nutsedge, Barnyard Grass, Tall Fescue, Quackgrass which are all commonly mistaken for crabgrass. These grassy weeds usually require a specialty post-emergent herbicide as part of a Lawn Renovation Plan to successfully control. Crabgrass grows outward along the ground and has a “turkey foot” type seed head. One plant can take up an area of a few feet when mature. When you receive a pre-emergent crabgrass application from PLS, you are getting the best product at the best time for control of crabgrass. With varying weather conditions, it is not always 100% control, but it is better than many of our competitors. Post-emergent control of crabgrass is best performed early in its growth stage. It is an annual which means by September it will be dying off on its own. It is best to trim back growth as to not allow seed development.
The grasses that make up our local lawns are “cool season” grasses. They naturally go dormant in the summer if it is too hot and dry and they will green back up again when cooler temperatures and rainfall return. If the root system is very shallow, the stressed turf may die. Watering during prolonged drought may help, but will not always immediately bring it back from dormancy.
Core Aeration if best done in the Fall. Also, when the soil has moisture and is not too hard. When you Core Aerate in the Spring, the soil cores laying on the surface are exposed to sunlight and there is a chance to promote more weed growth in your lawn. If you Aerate & Overseed in the Spring, it is best done early which provides a very small window of opportunity. In the Fall, weeds are done germinating and you get the most out of your core aeration. It is also a great time to overseed. Keep in mind, it is never really a bad time to aerate and your lawns needs should determine when and how often. A sodded lawn needs Core Aeration to break down the peat layer and to encourage oxygen, water and roots to break down into the soil beneath.
If we get around one inch of rain per week, there is no need to provide additional water. Deeper and infrequent watering is better than constant watering. Water slowly to avoid runoff. It is best to water in the morning when it is cool and allow the sun to dry it out. Overwatering may lead to fungal disease problems.